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It seems every time the click has frozen, one of these has been plugged in. Seems unlikely, but the only thing that it's coincided with are a pair of new Seagate Expansion 1TB hard drives I recently bought.
![cant left click mac air cant left click mac air](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/7HKqJyGN5mI/maxresdefault.jpg)
I then unlugged the power cord and restarted in safe mode and it's working - for now. But scarily, the last time it did it I couldn't click even after restarting. It does it out of the blue, and I have had to shut down and restart a few times. It's as though it's just ignoring of my clicking, both from the trackpad AND the magic mouse. It's not frozen, as I can still right click, and even navigate between programs using four-finger swipe for expose (then swiping back with the mouse over the program I want), and use keyboard commands to save and quite programs. And the real kicker is I can still RIGHT click, both with two fingers on the trackpad AND with my magic mouse.
#CANT LEFT CLICK MAC AIR PRO#
You helped me with screen replacement on this one and Keep up good work.Over the last few days my MacBook Pro 13 Inch, from 2010 running OSX 10.6.8, has stopped clicking a few times.Ī worn out track pad, you would think. Wondered around a couple of hours and did not find out what to do about replacement until finally I found this hint when I went to send in a question. PS Site managers Would be helpful to have a component list with directive to whether replaceable and in which procedure one should look for instructions. I wiped it down with paper towel, cut 1/4" strips of paper and ran them back and forth under the click cover - again on the back side- until they came out dry. Holding the computer upside down, front lowered and slanted away from the hard drive compartment, flushed the click from the back side with several busts under both sides of the click.
#CANT LEFT CLICK MAC AIR TRIAL#
I took out the battery and hard drive and got a can of WD40 with a straw nozzle. If you’re annoyed of having to add every single app you want to use the right click shortcut on to the list of apps allowed to control your Mac, you can use Better Touch Tool (45 day free trial license starts at 6.50) as well.The app is paid, but it offers a free trial, and brings a lot of features. OEM batteries are best for this since they tend to be thicker.įinding this response, after my wife's MacBook core duo did the same thing, and discovering the remedy recommended was to replace the whole top cover, I tried the lub fix. These topcases are flimsy, and the more you mess with them, the less the chance they are ever going to work again.Īlso, as one final thing to try, put the battery back in and see if the push of the battery against the underside of the button helps - sometimes it does. This reduces resistance between the left side of the button and the "clicker mechanism" and often restores usability.īut if that doesn't help, it's most likely a lost cause. Take a pair of tweezers and slip the flat end into the small space between the left side of the button and the metal strip, and then pry slightly, making the small space first about 1mm, and then if that doesn't do it try 2mm. If that doesn't help, take a look at the underside of the button - you'll see there is a strip of metal down the center of the button. This alone will often restore the "click" to a "soft" button. This will usually cause a cracking sound, as a seal formed by years of gunk buildup is broken.
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Having dealt with A1181 button issues for many years now, I've found the situation often cannot be resolved, but the first and most effective step to take is to remove the battery (and make sure the battery isn't swollen - that will cause a problem in itself) and firmly press up on either side of the button from inside the battery cavity.